A loom mitten pattern link http://luvtoloom.wordpress.com/2006/03/23/one-loom-mitten/
I made these mittens with chunky worst weight yarn and a size I hook. Keep in mind that I am doing this from memory, I unfortunately did not take any notes.
Starting at cuff: chain 11
Row 1: sc in second chain from hook, sc in the remaining stitches, ch1 turn (10 sc)
Row 2: sc in back loops of each sc across, ch1, turn
Repeat row 2 until 20 rows are completed.
Turn work to the side and work in continuous rounds.
Row 1: work 20 sc along side of the cuff mark the first and the last stitch
Row 2: 2 sc in the first stitch, sc until the last stitch, 2 sc in the last stitch (22 sc) again, mark the first and the last stitch.
repeat row 2 until you have 30 sc.
Setting up for the thumb:
sc in the next 4 sc, sc in the next sc and mark this stitch. sc in the next 21 sc, skip the next 8 sc, sc in the marked sc. (22 sc)
Marked stitch is first sc in each row.
Row 1: sc in each of the 22 sc around.
repeat row 1 for 10 rows, or about 1 1/2 inches below desired length.
Decrease for top of mitten:
Row 1: sc 2tog, sc in the next 4, sc 2tog, *sc in the next 5, sc 2 tog* repeat around
Row 2: sc around
Row 3: *sc in next 4, sc 2 tog* around
Row 4: sc around
Row 5: *sc in the next 3, sc 2 tog* around
Row 6: *sc in the next 2, sc 2 tog* around finish off.
sc in the first unworked sc (mark this stitch) and in the remaining 7 sc, 2 sc in the side of the mitten (10 sc)
do two more rounds of sc
decrease for thumb:
Row 1: sc in the next 3 sc, sc 2tog, repeat one more time
Row 2: sc around
Row 3: sc in the next 2 sc, sc 2 tog, repeat one more time, finish off.
Sew in ends, and sew up side seam for cuff.
Of course, make the other mitten.
Worsted wt yarn and 2 different color markers
Gauge: 4.5 - 5 sts = 1inch with worsted wt yarn.
Use whatever needles that get close to this gauge.
Size – Child’s or small woman’s
Ridge count is for right side of mitten.
CO 82 sts
1. Right Mitten: K29, pm (thumb tip), K22, pm (fingertip), K31 (82 sts) - Ridge 1
Left Mitten: K31, pm (fingertip), K22, pm (thumb tip), K29 (82sts) – Ridge 1
2. K across increasing -Kfb - before and after markers (86sts)
3. K across all sts - Ridge 2
4. Knit across increasing before and after markers (90 sts)
5. K across all sts - Ridge 3
6. Knit across increasing before and after fingertip marker but start to decrease before and after the thumb tip marker by K2tog & SSK (90 sts)
7. K across all sts - Ridge 4
8. Repeat Row 6 (90 sts)
9. K across all sts - Ridge 5
10. Right Mitten: K 51 sts and bind off next 20 sts, knit to end (do not remove finger tip marker)
Left Mitten: K 19, bind off 20, knit to end (do not remove finger tip marker)
11. Knit across closing up thumb gap (70sts) – Ridge 6
12. K across all sts
13. K across all sts - Ridge 7
14. K across all sts
15. K across all sts - Ridge 8
16. K across all sts
17. K across all sts - Ridge 9
18. K across, decreasing before and after marker - K2tog & SSK (68sts)
19. K across all sts - Ridge 10
20. K across, decreasing before and after marker - K2tog & SSK (66sts)
21. K across all sts - Ridge 11
22. K across, decreasing before and after marker - K2tog & SSK (64sts)
23. K across all sts - Ridge 12
24. K across, decreasing before and after marker - K2tog & SSK (62sts)
25. Bind off - Ridge 13.
Increase by knitting in the front and back of the stitch – Kfb
Seam with right sides facing by whip stitching or however you like.
If you make your mitten just one color then I think it does not matter which side is which, but I did not like the way my seam looked when I had the first ridge on the reverse.
When I join the gap that the thumb bind off stitches create, I use the “cross over join” method.
Originally these had a short row in the center but they fit the same with our without it so I decided to omit the short row. If anyone really would like to work the short row it is done on rows 12-14
12. K58, turn, leaving 12 sts unworked
13. Slip 1st st and K45, turn, leaving 12 sts unworked. - Ridge 7
14. Slip 1st st and K across to end of row.
by Mariella Apodaca 2007
Mittens are needed for Men, Women (adult), Children and Teens. Mittens can be knitted or crocheted.
We supply mittens for the men and women living outdoors, the families (men, women, and children living in the 2 family shelters), the women and men through Faith Mission, and women and children receiving care through the 2 free clinics.
As with all items, please avoid White and off white
Solids work best for men
Dark colors work for everyone, while light pastels only work for young female children.
Washable is always best. Washable wool is fine. Avoid novelty yarn except perhaps for trim
While several patterns are posted here, you are not restricted to only using these patterns. If you have a particular pattern you like, feel it's easy and versatile for a variety of knitters and crocheters, please let us know so the pattern can be posted. Mittens are always low on our donation list, as they tend to be more difficult for many to make.
**PLEASE, attach your mittens in pairs and include a note as to the size you made, ie adult female, adult male, child sized.....
This pattern has been highly recommended, for quick easy, 2 needle knitted pattern.
As is this One
Easy Fingerless Gloves
Visit her webpage HERE for other wonderful patterns and ideas.
Easy Fingerless Gloves v.3.21.11
Easy Fingerless Gloves
By Anastacia Zittel / email@example.com / anastaciaknits on Ravelry
Originally posted in the Crochet Pattern a Day Calendar 2009 & updated with additional info & sizes. Great for using an odd ball of self-striping yarn, scraps, variegated, etc, and makes a perfect great gift.
Materials: 32-40 grams of worsted weight yarn (I used Paton’s Classic Wool & Vanna’s Choice Solids), H crochet hook
Gauge: 15 sc=4 inches
Measurements: 4 inches (7 inches) long. Wrist size is easily adjustable to any size.
Easy Fingerless Gloves v.3.21.11
Abbreviations (pattern uses US terms):
sl st: slip stitch
blo: back loop only
sc: single crochet
Pattern note: These gloves are worked flat in back loops only, then sewn, leaving a space for your thumb to fit. You then crochet around the thumb opening to finish. The length & size of the gloves are easily customizable by using more or less beginning chains, & by working fewer or more rows. I have given 2 lengths to get you started. Original pattern did not have slip stitch shaping.
Ch 16 (26).
Row 1: Sl st in 1st 3 ch, sc in next 9 (19) ch, sl st in last 3 ch.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sl st in 1st 3 ch in blo, sc in next 9 (19) ch in BLO, sl st in last 3 ch in blo.
Rows 3-22: Ch 1, turn. Sl st in 1st 3 ch in blo, sc in next 9 (19) ch in BLO, sl st in last 3 ch in blo.
End off, leaving a long tail to sew beginning ch & last row together, leaving a hole for your thumb – I usually skip 4 sc.
Join yarn with a sl st in any skipped sc around thumb whole, sc into ea sc, & sc into ea seam st, about 10 sc. Join with a sl st.
End off. Weave in ends, block, and wear with pride!
Thanks to poodlemama9, frogsalad, harnish408 & redcurlysue for their test crocheting skills!
Feel free to make as many of these as you like for local craft fairs/auctions/raffles/bazaars, but please
do not sell finished items online. The pattern itself is not for sale. If making for charity, please let me know the name of the charity & include my contact info with the item (firstname.lastname@example.org / http://anastaciaknits.net / anastaciaknits on Ravelry). If you have any questions or comments or just want to join like-minded souls, please join my Ravelry group at http://www.ravelry.com/groups/anastacia-knits-designs. Thanks!
BP Mittens for Men©
Designed by Beth Parsons
1/10/09Materials: Red Heart 4 ply yarn
H crochet hook
Note: Ch 3 = 1 dc
FPS – front post stitch
BPS - back post stitch
Rnd 1: Ch 4, 7 dc in last ch, join to top of ch 3. (8dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (16 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (24 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (32 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 15 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 15 sts. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (34 dc)
Rnd 6 – 12: Ch 3, dc in each dc around. Ch 3, join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (34 dc)
Rnd 13: (Right Thumb Opening) Ch 3, dc in next 5 sts, ch 8, skip 6 sts, dc in next st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3.
Rnd 13: (Left Thumb Opening) Ch 3, dc in next st, dc in next 21 sts, ch 8, skip 6 sts, dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3.
Rnd 14: Ch 3, dc in next st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (36 dc)
Rnd 15: Repeat Rnd 14.
Rnd 16: Ch 3, dc in next 9 sts, dc dec, dc in next 16 dc, dc dec, dc in next 6 sts. Join with sl st to top of ch 3.
Rnd 17: (Cuff rounds) Ch 3, *fps around next dc, bps around next st. Repeat from * around. (Make the fps or bps around the decreases just like the double crochets) (32 dc)
Rnds 18 – 21: Repeat Rnd 17. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. End off. Work in loose end.
Right Thumb: With joining seam facing you (joining seam will be in the palm of the hand), attach yarn with a sl st in side of DC on Rnd 13. Ch 2, 2 dc in same place. Dc in next 6 sts, place 2 dc’s in side of DC of Rnd 13, dc in the back loop of the next 8 sts of Rnd 14. Join with a sl st to top of first dc. (18 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in same place, dc in each st around. Join with a sl st to top of first dc (not in ch 2!). (18 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same place, dc in each st around. Join with a sl st to top of first dc. (18 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in same place, dc decrease, dc in next 5 sts, dc decrease, dc in next 5 dc, dc decrease, dc in last st. Join with a sl st to top of first dc. (15 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in same place, dc decrease, dc in next 2 sts, dc decrease, dc in next 2 sts, dc decrease, dc in next 2 sts, dc decrease. Join with a sl st to top of first dc. (12 sts) End off, leaving a long end. With tapestry needle, use long end of yarn to gather themb closed. Tie off and work in loose end.
Left Thumb: With joining seam facing you (joining seam will be in the palm of the hand), attach yarn with a sl st in side of DC on Rnd 13. Ch 2, 2 dc in same place. Dc in the back loop of the next 8 sts of Rnd 14, place 2 dc’s in side of dc of Rnd 13, dc in next 6 sts. Join with a sl st to the top of first dc. (18 dc)
Rnds 2 – 5: Follow directions for Right Thumb
**picture is my hubby modeling 1st pair of mittens I made using Beth's pattern
***Please extend the cuff when making this pattern as it will stay on better and be warmer. I've thought about using this pattern but substituting sc or hdc to make it warmer, obviously that would change the size. If someone does this, please let me know how it turns out.
PANDA MAN'S PAW WARMERS
Copyright © 2006 by James G. Davis
These can be made in many sizes simply by changing the yarn and needles to get different gauges - without
changing the pattern at all! I LOVE patterns like that and I thoroughly enjoy creating them, too! :o) And so,
without further ado, I give you my Paw Warmers pattern! :o)
Materials: 2-3 ozs sport, DK or worsted weight yarn; needles required for gauge; 2 stitch markers; stitch holder
or waste yarn; tapestry needle for sewing.
Edited on 5/6/2008 to add:
Note on Needles: I used straight needles for these mittens, but if you want to do them on dpn's, just cast on 2
less sts and work the cuff adding the 2 sts on the last cuff rnd. After that, just remember to purl all oddnumbered
rounds (starting with rnd 17) and it should work out just fine! :o)
End of edit.
* Size is determined by Gauge - use whatever size needles and yarn you require to obtain gauge for desired
* Odd numbered rows (1, 5, 17, etc) are Wrong Side of mitten
* Beginning with Row 17, ALL Wrong Side (odd numbered) rows will be: K across.
* M1 (Make 1): make backward e-loop on RH needle and pull it snug (not tight)
Gauge ................ Approx. Mitten Size
6 sts = 1" ................ 4 - 6 year old
5.5 sts = 1" ............. 7 - 10 year old
5 sts = 1" ................ 11 - 13 year old
4.5 sts = 1" ............. teenager
4 sts = 1" ................ large teen - med adult
Cast On 34 sts using long-tail cast on
Rows 1 - 16: Work K2, P2 ribbing (34 sts)
Rows 17 - 25: K across (you will have 5 ridges on Right Side of mitten)
Row 26: K16, place marker, M1, K2, M1, place marker, K16 (36 sts)
Rows 28, 30, 32, 34, 36: K16, sl marker, M1, K to next marker, M1, sl marker, K16 (after Row 36 you will
have 14 sts between markers)
Row 38: K16, remove marker, place next 14 sts on stitch holder or waste yarn, remove next marker, CO 2 sts
on RH needle, K16 (34 sts)
Rows 39 - 63: K across (you will have 13 ridges above thumb opening on Right Side of mitten)
Row 64: K2, K2tog, (K7, K2tog) 3 times, K3 (30 sts)
Row 66: K2, K2tog, (K6, K2tog) 3 times, K2 (26 sts)
Row 68: K1, K2tog, (K5, K2tog) 3 times, K2 (22 sts)
Row 70: K1, K2tog, (K4, K2tog) 3 times, K1 (18 sts)
Row 72: K2tog, (K3, K2tog) 3 times, K1 (14 sts)
Row 74: K2tog across. (7 sts) Leaving long strand for sewing (about 18"), cut yarn and weave through
remaining sts with tapestry needle and pull snugly.
With Right Side of mitten facing, move the 14 sts from holder or waste yarn to needle and attach yarn.
Row 1 (Right Side): K1, M1, K across to last st, M1, K1 (16 sts)
Rows 2- 14: K across (you will have 7 ridges on Right Side of thumb)
Row 15: (K2, K2tog) across (12 sts)
Row 16: K across
Row 17: K2tog across (6 sts) Leaving long strand for sewing (about 8 - 10"), cut yarn and weave through
remaining sts with tapestry needle and pull snugly.
Sew thumb seam and base of thumb as needed. Sew side seam.
Make another mitten to match. :o)
**A tried and true knitted pattern**
Suzy made the cuffs longer which I would encourage others to do as well. And she didn't add the string which I would also recommend not doing. I believe these are the mitten Suzy made using this pattern.
This is a crocheted mitten pattern, supplied by DaMaris
Bev's 2 Needle KNIT MITTENS FOR KIDS
(pattern by Bev Qualheim-copyright 1998, 2011)
3 Sizes: Ages 3-5 (6-8) (9-11)
2 oz 4 ply worsted weight yarn or wool.
(You can also hold together 1 strand of ww yarn and 1 strand of washable sock yarn for more warmth.)
2 stitch holders and yarn sewing needle.
Knitting needles sizes 5 and 7 (6 and 8 for larger sizes)
Gauge with size 8 needles: 5 sts = 1" 6 rows=1"
Both mittens can be knitted at the same time. Simply use 2 skeins of the same yarn, or yarn from the middle and outside of the same skein. Cast on 2 mittens on the same needle and work across using the yarn from one skein for one mitten and yarn from the other skein for the 2nd mitten. Works great!CUFF- (using smaller needles): Cast on 28 sts. Work in ribbing of k1, p1 for 10 (12) (14) rows.
HAND: (using larger needles)
Row 1: inc 1 st in each of first 2 sts, k across, inc 1 st in each of last 2 sts - 32 sts.
Row 2 and all EVEN rows: Purl
Row 3: Knit
Row 5: K 15, place marker on needle, increase in each of the next 2 sts, place a marker on needle, k 15.
Row 7: K 15, slip marker, increase in next st (make your increase by knitting into base of next stitch instead of into top of the next st. Makes for a neater increase.), k2, increase in next st, slip marker, k 15. Continue to increase 1 st after first marker and before 2nd marker every k row until there are 12 (14 for both larger sizes) sts between markers.
(You are going to place some stitches on holders here, so you can work on the thumb)
Next row: (This is a purl row)
P16 (you will have to remove marker for the 16th stitch); slip those stitches to a stitch holder, p 10 (12 - for both larger sizes) (this will become the thumb); slip remaining 16 sts to another holder (removing the marker).
THUMB: Work even for 4 (6) (8) rows. K 2 tog across next row. Break yarn; leave end for sewing. Run yarn through remaining sts, draw up tightly and fasten. Sew thumb seam.
TOP: Join yarn at beg of 2nd holder, p to end of row purling right off the holders back onto needles. Work even on 32 sts for 12 (14) (16) rows. You can change colors on knit rows (right side of mitt) if you wish to add stripes.
Row 1: (k 2 tog, k2) 8 times.
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: (k2 tog, k1) 8 times.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K 2 tog across. Break yarn; run through remaining sts and fasten.
Make a 2nd mitten in the same manner. Sew up seams by whip stitching or use the mattress stitch to make it less noticeable.
Published on Free Vintage Knitting Patterns (http://freevintageknitting.com)
Women's Two-Needle Mittens
MATERIALS: Bear Brand or Fleisher’s Twin-Pak Knitting Worsted; or Bear Brand or Fleisher’s Twin-Pak Win-Knit; 6 ozs.
“Boye” Knitting Needles, 1 pair each Sizes 3 and 8.
GAUGE: Size 8 needles; 9 sts = 2 inches
LEFT MITTEN-Cuff: With size 8 needles and double strand of yarn, cast on 48 sts.
Row 1: wrong side: * K 3, p 1; repeat from * to end.
Row 2: * With yarn in back of work, slip 1 st as to k, p 3; repeat from * t end. Repeat these 2 rows for 3 ins., end on right side.
Dec. row: * K 1, k 2 tog., p 1; repeat from * to end: 36 sts.
Wrist: Break off 1 strand. With size 3 needles and 1 strand of yarn, slip 1 st as before, p 2; repeat from * to end.
Next row: * K 2, p 1; repeat from * to end. Continue pat. as in last 2 rows for 1 ½ ins., end on right side. Mark last row for beg. of hand.
Hand: With size 8 needles and double strand, work pat. until 2 ins. above marker, end on wrong side.
Thumb: Work 19 sts, cast on 5 sts on right hand needle, turn. Work pattern of k 2, p 1 on the 5 cast-on sts and on next 7 sts, turn. Leave remaining sts on back of needle.
Work even on 12 thumb sts only until 2 ins. from cast-on sts, end on right side.
Next row: * k 2 tog., p 1; repeat from * to end; 8 sts. Break off, leaving an end for sewing. Draw end tightly through all sts, sew side seam of thumb.
Working from right side, join 2 strands of yarn in 12th sts of right hand needle, pick up and k 7 sts across the 5 cast-on sts of thumb, work pat. to end; 36 sts. Work even until 4 ins. above picked-up sts or to within ½ in. of desired length to top of fingers.
Dec. row: * K 2 tog., p 1; repeat from * to end; 24 sts.
Next row: * slip 1 st, p 1; repeat from * to end. K 1, p 2 tog. 11 times, end p 1; 13 sts. Break off, leaving end for sewing. Draw end tightly through all sts. Sew side seam.
RIGHT MITTEN: Work cuff, wrist and hand same as left mitten until 2 ins. above marker for beg. of hand, end on wrong side.
Thumb: Work first 18 sts, drop yarn. With second ball of double strand, cast on 5 sts on left hand needle, work pat. on these 5 sts and on next 7 sts, turn. Finish thumb on these 12 sts to correspond to left mitten; fasten off. With dropped yarn, from right side, pick up and k 7 sts on the 5 cast-on sts for thumb, finish row; 36 sts. Finish as for left mitten. Steam.
Here's a pattern for making mitten on the looms.